Once the clay is dry these are useful for carving and cutting it. I used the gouges on the left quite a bit. When the clay cracked during drying I would basically clean the crack up with a v shaped gouge or a knife then make some watered down clay and fill it up. Worked really well. The gouges and box cutter are also good for cleaning up the hollow areas like arm holes and joint areas.

The pictured gouges kinda sucked. They get dull rather quick and one had a chip in the metal right out of the box...But a whole set was only $10 U.S. I going to replace a couple with Flexcut gouges. I used them in a printmaking class I took a while back and those ones worked like a champ. If you have the money I'd say get the cheap set, see what you use, then replace those ones.

I keep a paint scraper handy for cleaning the work surface periodically.

The saw on the right is a pull saw. It feels flimsy but makes really clean straight cuts. It cuts through paperclay and polystyrene like it isn't even there. I made the arms legs and torso sections as one whole piece then cut them up at the joint area with this. Used the gouges to round out the areas and went from there.

I just started using the sanding pads instead of regular sandpaper and love them. They're pretty cheap and durable. Just rinse them out now and then. Pictured here is the 100 grit and fine grit ones. They have served me well so far.

The other pieces are sanding film from Testors. They're like plastic sand paper and are a bit more durable and re-useable than regular paper. It is good for getting into smaller places because you can fold them into shapes or wrap them around a pencil or something to sand. I just got some new ones from a company called Flex-I-Grit and they are bigger, cheaper, and come in finer grits than the Testors ones.

Next to that is a hobby file and a round file. I use these things all the time. The hobby file is rounded on one side and flat on the other so it is pretty versatile for hollowing things out more or taking off lots of material. The round one is good for getting into the arms or other tight spots. A small half-round would be nice too but these two worked for me.

I've got a whole set of the super-fine files around here somewhere but could only find these two right now. They rock for doing finishing detail sanding. I also used the tips to scrape into the dry clay in a few places.

The wire texture thing is used on the wet clay. Dip it in water and scrape it across the back of the flattened clay before you put it onto the foam core and it helps it stick. Same goes for adding more clay to things. Sometimes I use the hobby file to rough up the dry clay as well to give the new clay something to grad onto. If you don't want to buy the wire thing a toothbrush is just about as good. I also used it to clean out the foam from the inside of the doll.

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This is some of the random stuff I had.

Something to hold water and a spray bottle. The clay likes to be kept moist. I use this little one to dip my fingers into or small bits of clay, etc. It's just a cheap ceramic bowl I got at Target. I also have the top to a CD spindle for bigger things. It's also a good idea to soak the wood tools or dip them now and then. Moist tools seem to work with the clay better.

Wirecutters for cutting armature wires and such.

A compass or calipers. I used it to measure out the distance between things to try to maintain some symmetry. I failed at that but these were still really helpful.

Brushes for smoothing out the clay. I used the flat for larger areas of the face and the round for things like the ear and nose.

I used the chopsticks as a thickness guide when rolling out the clay. Put them on wither side of a ball of clay and use a rolling pin to flatten it. I saw Yoshida do it in his book and it is pretty helpful. Just remember they are tapered to have them facing opposite directions. Also useful for skewering the foam so I had something to hold onto that wasn't the clay and to stick into another block of foam when letting the clay dry.

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I fucking love this thread.

>>91

>inevitable, indistinguishable lump of clay that results

bring the beast to life!

>>173

>>91 here; I have made some progress, the styrofoam core has been the biggest pain so far - the scuplting itself hasn't been as bad as I had expected, although symmetry's a bitch.

And I gave up on doing anything about the bulkiness, so now healthy doll is healthy...

Currently in the process of heavy procrastination.

Last edited 08/08/07(Thu)07:09.

>>174
Hey, not bad! Looks kind of small, though...unless I'm interpreting the perspective in the picture wrong.

>>174
Looks amazing Anon! Very good work!

>>174

>so now healthy doll is healthy...

Oh, I lol'd hard. :)
Great job, Anon. Keep it up!

I just put in an order for $80 worth of super sculpty, and totally can't wait, most of these tools (if not all) are available at every craft store I've ever seen and most can be and are used for woodcrafting which I do a leasurely ammount of so I already had them, way to go /Do/

Well I guess I might as well change the 'ol homepage to bokuchan since it seems desuchan's coming upon its yearly 3-4month downtime

Yep, and they're anatomically correct, too. Anyone got pics of one of these little things in use?

>>307
That's quite the realistic doll you have there.

So you want Japanese-style sandals but here toes don't separate? That's a challenge... It seems that you'll have to somehow fake it.

She look like Kuro chan. Do want !

You know where to buy the wigs and outfit?

Please tell me this same place sells the Souseiseki wig and outfit.

fuck i need that